I have no clue. HELP ME!!

[hunter]

I just had a question for all ya'll. I was wanting to start coloring some of the things I'm doing but have no idea how to do it. What would you recommend as the easiest, best program for a new person. Any ideas? Cheap is good too but I just want something that's pretty easy to understand and get the hang of.
Thanks in advance.

[jeaf7]

My quote is "You pay for what you get". I wouldnt go cheap on a program. In my eyes there is one and only program Adobe Photoshop... I know alot of people use Corel Painter also. Ive used them both and just find Photoshop to out perform Painter everytime. But thats just me....

[deathdealer]

before you spend any money try Gimp...it's free

[L Jamal]

Use eBay to get a cheap version of Photoshop. I suggest at least 7.0 and it should cost you around $100-200. Worse case scenario, you don't want it and then put it back up on eBay.

[MrGranger]

Originally Posted by ljamal

Use eBay to get a cheap version of Photoshop. I suggest at least 7.0 and it should cost you around $100-200. Worse case scenario, you don't want it and then put it back up on eBay.

Worst case you lose $100-200 for a blank CD. I stopped buying DVDs, CDs, and software off Ebay after I found out (the hard way) that if you get screwed and they cannot recover your $$ then you're out. I had three fraud auctions all at once recently and while I recovered two of them, I was out $100 for the last one. It was blank.

I wouldn't buy any software or DVDS that were very expensive off ebay. Amazon and Half.com have better $$ back warranties.

Shawn

[L Jamal]

I think it goes unsaid that you only buy from reputable dealers on eBay.
I've never had a problem with software on eBay.

[Gonzogoose]

Originally Posted by ljamal

I think it goes unsaid that you only buy from reputable dealers on eBay.
I've never had a problem with software on eBay.

Nor have I, and I've ordered several DVDs. You have to check their rating and what customers say about them before you think about purchasing from them.

That said, I did get a faulty DVD from Amazon among a few others that worked... but Amazon paid me back when the company that sold it wouldn't even respond to me.


www.brantfowler.com
LETTERER FOR HIRE!

[raya]

Originally Posted by ljamal

Use eBay to get a cheap version of Photoshop. I suggest at least 7.0 and it should cost you around $100-200. Worse case scenario, you don't want it and then put it back up on eBay.

What he said, but always check feedback for the sellers, and check how much they have, not just if they get 100 percent approval, that could just be from 2 buyers (which could also be someone they know, supposidly, this is unfortunatly common so they can raise their approval rating). I try and buy from the power sellers.

There is also Manga Studio Debut, which is great for drawing. But I haven't tried it for coloring:

http://www.e-frontier.com/go/mangastudio

[Lee Nordling]

You've already got the best "what" advice: use Photoshop; don't settle for less...not if you're serious.

Your first question was "how," and there are a LOT of tutorials on the web. I'm pasting in one that I got over three years ago--I think it's a DC Comics guideline; I don't know who wrote it--and it covers the production basics.

The HOW:

* Work in 'CMYK' mode, NOT 'RGB'.

--STEP 1

You receive bitmap scans from DC (or you've scanned them yourself). Open up one of the pages in Photoshop. Since you'll be working in CMYK mode, you've got to do the following: In the pulldown IMAGE menu at the top of your screen, go into MODE and switch the file from BITMAP to GREYSCALE (a little dialog box will pop up. Make sure the 'size ratio' is set at '1', and then click 'OK'). Next, go back into IMAGE and then MODE again, and this time change the GREYSCALE mode to CMYK. Now, go over to your CHANNELS box, and select DUPLICATE CHANNEL. Another dialog box will pop up, in which you should type 'linework' (newer versions of Photoshop automatically name this channel "BLACK COPY" for you). Click OK, and a new channel will appear called 'linework'. Click on the CMYK channel and all of the channels will become 'active' again, except for your new linework copy. Now SAVE (under the pulldown menu FILE or hit the 'COMMAND' and 'S' keys at the same time).

You have just set up your page, which is now prepped and ready to be colored.

One last thing... make sure the eyeball icon in front of each channel is on, including the one in front of your new 'linework' channel'. This channel should stay inactive, but you'll always want to be able to see it.

Now an explanation of why you created a duplicate black channel. While coloring your page, it's inevitable that you'll mistakenly color over some of the original black linework. Since you've planned ahead and created a duplicate of that black linework, all you need to do (once you've finished putting down all of your colors) is pop the duplicate back into the original black channel! Smart, huh? More on how to do this later on.

--STEP 2: FLATS

So now you're ready to start the actual coloring part of the job. First, you'll have to set up what are called 'flats'. By using the LASSO or MARQUEE tool, select each panel and fill it with a color (EDIT/FILL). Remember to leave the gutters (the space between the panels) white. Don't worry about the word balloons at this point.

Note* SAVE your work every time you think of it. Between steps, before you get up to go to the bathroom, after you've finished modelling a head. ALWAYS BE SAVING!

Now, beginning with the largest areas, start selecting and filling the different elements of the picture. Use colors that are in the general ballpark of how you picture the final page to look without modeling. These colors are referred to as 'base' colors. It'll probably be easier for you to 'flat' some of the smaller objects using the PENCIL tool. Lastly, using the LASSO tool again, select and fill with white all of the word balloons. When you're all done flatting the entire page,, it will probably look like an old, traditionally-colored comic page.

At this point, many colorists create a 'flats channel'. This is done in three easy steps; do a 'select-all' (command-A) and copy it (command-C). Next, create a 'new channel' and call it "FLATS" (done by pulling down the little triangle in the upper righthand corner of the channel box and selecting 'new channel') Lastly, paste your selection right into this new channel (command-V). You'll see your image reproduced as greytones in your new 'FLATS' channel. Save. Now you'll always be able to select a flatted shape, even later, after you've done all of your rendering (this is great for doing corrections later).
***Mark notes that he personally never creates a 'flats' channel, but says that it is probably a smart thing to do.

--THE FINAL STEP:

There's one important set of final steps you need to go through in order to prepare your final files. Part of this gets a bit technical, but once you do it a few times, you'll get the hang of it.

Because of the way you set up your files, you have an extra, untouched black channel. Again, this was important to create because during the coloring process, you most likely colored over and on top of much of your 'black channel'. Now you need to paste the duplicate black channel over the C,M,Y,and K channels. Here's how you do it:

- Go up to SELECT and pull down LOAD SELECTION. In the dialogue box that pops up, BLACK COPY (or whatever your black channel duplicate is called) should be selected under CHANNEL. Hit OK. You'll see that all of your black linework is selected.
Here's where it gets a little confusing, but just follow the steps and an explanation will come later.

- Under SELECT, pull down MODIFY and then CONTACT. Type in the number 2. This will make your blackline selection smaller all around by two pixels. Why might you have to INVERT???

- Select the color C60 M40 Y40. Pull down EDIT then FILL. OPACITY should be 100%, MODE should be NORMAL. Hit 'OK'. You'll notice that everywhere that should be black is now grey.. This grey is alled your 'undercolor'.

- Select your BLACK COPY again (SELECT/LOAD SELECTION/OK). Now fill this selection with K100 (EDIT/FILL/MULTIPLY). Make sure you fill it at MULTIPLY this time, not at NORMAL.This will put a layer of flat black ink over your 'undercolor'>

- Delete your extra BLACK COPY channel (by clicking on the BLACK COPY channel, going up to the little black triangle in the upper righthand corner of the channels box, and selecting DELETE CHANNEL).

SAVE!

If everything has gone well, you should now have five channels (CMYK, CYAN, MAGENTA, YELLOW and BLACK).Just to check, click on the eyeball for the BLACK channel, which will make that channel invisible. If everything has gone well, you should be able to see the grey 'undercolor' underneath all of the areas that will print as black.

Okay, so why did you have to create a grey undercolor?? Here's why: if you had simply put down your black linework over your CMY coloring job, the black areas would look weak, not as a true rich black. By adding a bit of cyan, magenta and yellow ink under the 100% black, you end up with a deep, rich black. The other reason is, you need a flat consistent color under the black to hide all of the colors you cut out when you were creating your flats.

Okay, so why did you have to CONTRACT the undercolor by two pixels? here's why: if your undercolor was exactly directly under every pixel of black ink, you obviously wouldn't be able to see it, which is good. But if the black if the black late shifted even the tiniest bit while on press, you'd see some of that undercolor, which is bad. As good as today's professional printers are, there's just no way for the line-up of colors and black ink to be 100% perfect.

__________________________________________________ ________________

[raya]

www.gutterzombie.com

It's a forum for colorists.

[spider]

I can't really say there is a right or wrong way of coloring, if it works then then thats all that matters.
With this page as an example I'll tell you what I do...



First I scan and in grayscale and cut out the excess space I don't need, then save.

Then I open Photoshop 7 (that or higher should suffice), open the picture and go Edit> Mode then change format to CMKY.

Then I go Image> Adjustments > Levels and make the line work thicker.

Then with the eraser I clean up everything outside the panels and any thick linework not needed within them.

I don't go with all this lasso tool stuff, I just click paintbucket and fill everything that needs coloring.

Once you have the colors, then comes the shading/lighting.
Remember where your light source is coming from and shade (burn tool) around the characters appropiately.

Once you have your characters shaded, then comes the background, I usually thicken the shading tool when adding character shadows.
With little details like the slime on the green monster and the hell setting I just shade however I think will look best.

Then finally, if there is any lighting or shine needed I add that (dodge tool), with the green monsters eyes and metallic plates on the suit guy you can see it a little bit.

Then I save and head for the lettering stage, which is something else entirely.

[mudcat]

I use the same method Lee mentioned to setting up my lineart.

Assuming you do get Photoshop, there is one thing I'd recommend when you're setting up your lineart (before you do any of the steps Lee suggested, but after you've adjusted your levels/contrast if needed).

Go into actions, start a new action (name it lineart or something stupid simple like that), and then record every single step while you're preparing your lineart. Once you're finished, stop recording. Now you have a new action that will automatically set up your black and undercolor so that you'll always have the 240 black. It's a nice little timesaver.

[captainarian]

Originally Posted by hunter

I just had a question for all ya'll. I was wanting to start coloring some of the things I'm doing but have no idea how to do it. What would you recommend as the easiest, best program for a new person. Any ideas? Cheap is good too but I just want something that's pretty easy to understand and get the hang of.
Thanks in advance.

i believe photo shop would be the best, just play around with it and you'll get to know how to color your stuff, it won't be as pro as the comics in the market but good enough if you have no trainings.

[John Rauch]

Originally Posted by Lee Nordling

You've already got the best "what" advice: use Photoshop; don't settle for less...not if you're serious.

Your first question was "how," and there are a LOT of tutorials on the web. I'm pasting in one that I got over three years ago--I think it's a DC Comics guideline; I don't know who wrote it--and it covers the production basics.

The HOW:

* Work in 'CMYK' mode, NOT 'RGB'.
...

Actually, this isn't a necessity anymore. Back in the 90's sure, but these days, most colorists work in RGB and convert to CMYK at the end. In fact, Painter doesn't even support CMYK mode and there's a good number of colorists using it these days as well.

_____

Here are some tutorials I've written:

http://www.howtomakecomics.net/learn/24
http://www.howtomakecomics.net/learn/30

And a few videos:

http://retroaero.blogspot.com/2007/0...s-i-color.html
http://retroaero.blogspot.com/2007/1...-coloring.html
http://retroaero.blogspot.com/2007/0...ng-videos.html

[JAQ]

Originally Posted by raya

There is also Manga Studio Debut, which is great for drawing. But I haven't tried it for coloring:

If you did try, you'd find you can't do it. If you know the trick, you can produce a limited range of flat colors in Manga Studio, but it is designed for black and white art, and doesn't have the tools you'd need for full-color work.